Daring To Be Different
Founded in 2004 by Belarmino Fernandez and Alfonso Chacon, Canopy has (quite unassumingly) played a significant role in helping the wider world to appreciate what the ‘New Spain’ is capable of – Michel Bettane even went so far as to acknowledge them as ‘architects of the Spanish renassiance’. Belarmino and Alfonso are self-confessed ‘terroir obsessives’, driven by a desire to bottle the unique characteristics of their little corner of Sierra de Gredos.
All the wines are foot-trodden and sulphur is kept to an absolute minimum. The philosophy is fundamentally sustainable and organic in practice, but not to the point of certification nor is it bound by particular strictures. As Alfonso puts it, ‘There’s no need to use alternative vine growing methods like biodynamics. We can make honest wines in Gredos; we only need what nature gives us. Soils, landscape and Garnacha’s clonal diversity are really interesting. You get wines that smell of thyme, lavender… the kind of plants that grow around here”.
90% Macabeo, 5% Verdejo & 5% Grenache. Stainless steel ferment. Elegant with its floral, grassiness but surprisingly complex too, with fennel, strawberry and peach notes.
45+ year old vines. 100% Grenache. Long pre-ferment maceration. 3 months in French oak. Vibrant blueberry and floral notes, wonderful acidity, buttery tannins.
An amalgam of the two founders' names complete with its own bouncy castle, a tongue-in-cheek reference to France's 'grand vins' and their imposing chateaux. 100% old vine Grenache from the granitic soils of El Real de San Vicente. Very much a 'vin de soif' but not at the expense of complexity, thanks to 6 months in French oak.
100% Syrah from 35 year old trellised vines in Camarena, Mentrida. Powerful, rich and persistent.
Fermented in steel and French oak and then aged in a mixture of steel and foudres with plentiful battonage. Named 'Loco' because apparently the team went completely bonkers when they found a 65 year old Garnacha Blanca vineyard, literally the only remaining example in central Spain. Each bottle wears it's own strait jacket, in case you were in any doubt as to the wine's distinct personality.